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Speed climbing is a discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal., Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition (14 Oct 1997) ,978-1-84037-001-0 Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

Competition speed climbing, which takes place on an artificial and standardized climbing wall, is the main form of speed climbing. However, there are types of speed climbing that take place outdoors, such as climbing famous big wall climbing routes in the shortest times, notable examples being on in Yosemite National Park.

Competition speed climbing
Competition speed climbing as governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) takes place on artificial walls. Competitors climb a 5-degree overhanging IFSC-certified wall, with an auto-belaying system from the top of the wall.

Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The standard has a simple rule and it involves climbers competing on the same route, side by side, and whoever reaches the top first wins. The holds and order are always identical, and the difficulty rating is around F6b (approximately YDS 5.10c), which is a level most recreational climbers could complete. The IFSC also sanctions speed climbing competitions and those events that entail world record attempts. Speed climbing was one of the three climbing modalities included in the combined format at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, along with and . Beginning at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, speed climbing has been its own standalone competition, separate from the lead and bouldering combined event.

Time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor leaves the starting pad and strikes a switch at the top of the route). When mechanical-electric timing is used, the climbing time is displayed with an accuracy of one-hundredth of a second. In the rules modifications in 2018, the possibility to use manual timing was removed, and the mechanical-electric timing should record with a precision of 1/1000 second. This precision is only used for ranking in case of a tie. Further, the timing system needs to announce a false start, which is considered a start with less than 0.1 seconds of reaction time after the starting beep.

File:Chamonix 2018 Jan Kriz.jpg|Two climbers compete against each other on the Speed Wall (Chamonix 2018) File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Speed (DSC09055).jpg|Full view of the standardized Speed Wall File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Speed Eighth-finals (BT0A6048).jpg|Start position. The climber stands on a pressure plate foot trigger, which is used for detecting false starts. File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Combined Final speed (BT0B0374).jpg|Hitting a button at the top of the wall stops the timer. The climber is secured by an auto- device. File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Combined Final speed (BT0B0407).jpg|Two competitors in the 2018 Climbing World Championships File:Speed climbing hold large.jpg|Large standardised speed climbing hold. File:Speed climbing hold small.jpg|Small standardised speed climbing hold.

World champions
The defending men's and women's speed climbing world champions are of Italy and Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia, respectively; they won their respective speed events at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in , Switzerland. of Indonesia and Natalia Kalucka of Poland were the overall men's and women's winners for the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup speed series.

World and Olympic records
Since Qixin Zhong of China ran the 15-meter standardized wall in 6.26 seconds in 2011, the world record has been broken 20 times. The record has been broken thirteen times since 2021, most recently 4.64 seconds by Samuel Watson of USA in May 2025 at the World Cup event in Bali, Indonesia. That represents a drop of 25.9 percent since 2011.

Similarly, the women's speed climbing record has been broken 20 times since 2013, nine times since 2021, dropping from 7.85 seconds to the 6.06 seconds set by Aleksandra Mirosław of Poland in August 2024, a 22.8-percent reduction.

+Men's World Record History !Date !Time (s) !Person !Location !Competition
May 3, 20254.64Samuel Watson, IndonesiaWorld Cup
May 3, 20254.67Samuel Watson, IndonesiaWorld Cup
August 8, 20244.74Samuel Watson, France
August 6, 20244.75Samuel Watson, France
April 12, 20244.798Samuel WatsonWujiang, ChinaWorld Cup
April 12, 20244.859Samuel WatsonWujiang, ChinaWorld Cup
April 28, 20234.90, South KoreaWorld Cup
April 28, 20234.984Veddriq Leonardo, South KoreaWorld Cup
July 8, 20225.009, FranceWorld Cup
June 30, 20225.04Kiromal KatibinVillars, SwitzerlandWorld Cup
June 30, 20225.09Kiromal KatibinVillars, SwitzerlandWorld Cup
May 27, 20225.10Kiromal KatibinSalt Lake City, USWorld Cup
May 6, 20225.17Kiromal Katibin, South KoreaWorld Cup
May 28, 20215.20Veddriq LeonardoSalt Lake City, USWorld Cup
May 28, 20215.25Kiromal KatibinSalt Lake City, USWorld Cup
April 30, 20175.48, ChinaWorld Cup
September 12, 20145.60, SpainWorld Championships
August 31, 20145.73 Arco, ItalyWorld Cup
August 30, 20145.76Libor HrozaArco, ItalyWorld Cup
October 13, 20125.88Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii, ChinaWorld Cup
August 27, 20116.26Arco, ItalyWorld Championships

+Men's Olympic Record History !Date !Time (s) !Person !Location !Games
August 8, 20244.74Samuel Watson, FranceParis 2024
August 6, 20244.75Samuel Watson, FranceParis 2024
August 6, 20244.79, FranceParis 2024
August 3, 20215.45Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo, JapanTokyo 2020

+Women's World Record History !Date !Time (s) !Person !Location !Competition
September 24, 20256.03 Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaIFSC Climbing World Championships
August 5, 20246.06Aleksandra Mirosław, FranceOlympics
August 5, 20246.21Aleksandra Mirosław, FranceOlympics
September 15, 20236.24Aleksandra Mirosław, ItalyIFSC European Olympic Qualifier
April 28, 20236.25 Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaWorld Cup
April 28, 20236.35 Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaWorld Cup
April 28, 20236.37Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaWorld Cup
April 28, 20236.46Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaWorld Cup
May 27, 20226.53Aleksandra MirosławSalt Lake City, USWorld Cup
May 6, 20226.64Aleksandra Mirosław, South KoreaWorld Cup
August 6, 20216.84Aleksandra Mirosław, JapanOlympic Games
November 21, 20206.96, RussiaEuropean Championships
October 19, 20196.99Aries Susanti Rahayu, ChinaWorld Cup
April 26, 20197.10, ChinaWorld Cup
April 22, 20187.32, RussiaWorld Cup
July 22, 20177.32Iuliia KaplinaWrocław, Poland
April 30, 20177.38Iuliia Kaplina, ChinaWorld Cup
April 23, 20177.46Iuliia Kaplina, ChinaWorld Cup
July 11, 20157.53Iuliia Kaplina, FranceWorld Cup
June 21, 20157.56Iuliia Kaplina, ChinaWorld Cup
May 17, 20157.74Iuliia Kaplina, CanadaWorld Cup
October 19, 20137.85Iuliia KaplinaWujiang, ChinaWorld Cup

+Women's Olympic Record History !Date !Time (s) !Person !Location !Games
August 5, 20246.06 Aleksandra Mirosław, FranceParis 2024
August 5, 20246.21Aleksandra Mirosław, FranceParis 2024
August 5, 20246.36, FranceParis 2024
August 5, 20246.52Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, FranceParis 2024
August 5, 20246.54Zhou Yafei, FranceParis 2024
August 6, 20216.84Aleksandra Mirosław, JapanTokyo 2020
August 4, 20216.97Aleksandra Mirosław, JapanTokyo 2020

Non-competition speed climbing
Most non-competition speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with objective records. Competition speed climber has written about non-competition speed climbing: "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly." Speed Climbing!: How to Climb Faster and Better 2nd edition, By Hans Florine, Bill Wright Published by Globe Pequot, 2004, , 978-0-7627-3095-7

However, various climbers have set "speed records" on well-known and frequently climbed routes, such as climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 120+ metre) in 4 min 25 sec. Dan Osman- Lover's Leap The most notable of such records are listed below:

Notable non-competition records
California
The Nose,

Regular Northwest Route,

  • 1:53:25 Jim Herson and 1999.
  • 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
  • 3:58 solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).
Snake Dike,

Joshua Tree National Park

  • 280 Routes in a day Michael Reardon solo 2004.

Colorado
Bastille Crack
  • 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.

  • 36:27 Bill Briggs solo 1989 (car to car).

Nevada
Epinephrine

Cat In The Hat

New York
  • 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
  • 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004. 3400' of climbing and descent.
  • 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006 3400' of climbing and descent.

Wyoming
  • 6:40 Rolando Garibotti solo 2000.

See also
  • Competition bouldering
  • Competition lead climbing
  • Competition ice climbing

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